KH1 CW Key

1. Open the shipping container and remove all contents.
2. Retain the container and lid. Do not discard them. Both are used as precision assembly jigs throughout this guide.
3. Empty the small hardware bag into a bowl or tray to avoid losing any of the small screws, shims, or magnets.
4. Click Each Inventory Item Below to add a check mark to ensure you identify all of the parts.

1. Cut a 3-inch (76mm) piece of magnet wire. Cut the remaining piece in half.
2. Using the included sandpaper, scuff approximately ½ inch (12mm) of insulation from the ends of each of the two longer wires.
3. For the short 3-inch wire, scuff 1½ to 2 inches (38-51mm) of insulation from one end only.

1. Feed a long wire through the paddle starting from the paddle arm, feeding toward the bearing ring.
2. Use needle-nose pliers to grab the end and thread the wire through the second hole at the back near the magnet cavity.
3. Repeat for the second paddle.

1. Using the 0.9mm hex key as a mandrel, form a small loop at the paddle arm end of the wire. This is the end opposite the magnets and bearings.
2. Verify the loop does not overlap itself at any point. A single, clean layer ensures consistent seating depth. See reference image.
3. Gently pull the loose end of the wire through the paddle arm until the loop meets the opening of the wiring hole.
4. The wire may need to be rotated so that the loop rests flat against the bottom of the hole. Using the tip of the 0.9mm hex tool, press the loop firmly down into the wiring hole until it is fully seated. See reference image.
5. Repeat steps 1–4 for the second paddle.

1. Use the 0.9mm hex tool to insert an M2×2mm stainless set screw into the paddle wiring hole and thread it in. Tighten the set screw exactly 3 and 1/8 turns to snug it against the wire loop. Do not overtighten past 3 and 1/8 turns. Pro Tip: Rather than counting turns of the hex tool, if your work surface allows, it may be easier to press the hex tool down firmly onto the set screw and rotate the paddle itself counter-clockwise 3 and 1/8 turns.
2. Calibration: The set screw will sit slightly lower than the 0.5mm feeler gauge shelf. With the gauge resting in place, press lightly with your fingertip; you should not feel the set screw beneath it.

1. Using your multimeter set to continuity or resistance, firmly probe the set screw to ensure a good reading against the bare end of the magnet wire.

Perform the following steps for both paddles.

2. Measure 1¾ inches (44mm) of wire extending from the end of the paddle arm. Using a marker, mark a ½ inch (12mm) section of wire at that point. This defines exactly where the insulation will be removed.
3. Using fine-grit sandpaper or the back of a hobby knife blade, scrape the insulation off the marked section. Rotate the wire as you work to expose bare copper on all sides. The marker ink will scrape away along with the insulation.
4. Leave the excess wire attached; it will be trimmed to final length in a later step.

Perform the following steps for both paddles. The 5×2mm paddle magnets are installed later, in Step 10, alongside their matched body magnets. This step covers bearings only.

1. Before applying glue, dispense a small amount onto a scrap surface (paper, cardboard, etc.) and confirm it flows as a gel, not a runny liquid. If it runs freely, do not use it on this step; the fit is tight and excess glue can foul the bore.
2. For each paddle, guide the magnet wire into the small channel cut into the wall of the bearing bore. Check from above: when looking straight down into the bore, the wire should be fully nested in the channel and not visible. If any wire is visible across the opening, press it further into the channel before proceeding. A wire that is not fully seated will be pinched or cut when the bearing is pressed in.
   
3. Using a toothpick or other small pointy applicator, apply a light bead of glue along the flange shoulder of each bearing. Press each bearing fully into the paddle bore. Confirm the magnet wire is still seated in its cutout and not pinched. Wipe away any excess glue. Set both paddles aside to dry.

1. Press-fit the M3 Standoff Cap (small stub nub) onto the round end of the M3×8mm standoff. Lay the nub flat on the workbench. Set the round end of the standoff down onto the nub and press firmly straight down. Use a flat tool or a flat surface to apply even pressure. Keep the standoff perfectly vertical as you press; tilting it at an angle will prevent a secure fit.
2. Take the 3-inch piece of magnet wire set aside in Step 2 and form a 270° loop with the long scuffed end of the wire (see photos). Lay it flat in the round cavity in the bottom of the key body, routing the tail toward the opposite end of the key body, where the PCB and 3.5mm jack will be. Use the cutout notch in the key body as a guide for the wire path. See photo.
3. Set the M3 washer on top of the wire loop to hold it in the cavity.
4. With the key body bottom still facing up, place the M3×8mm standoff in position underneath the key body so the hex end of the standoff rests in the hex-shaped cutout on the key body (currently facing downward).
5. Insert the M3×10mm screw from above, threading down through the wire loop and washer into the standoff. Tighten firmly; the screw threads directly into stainless steel and will hold securely.

The CW key's return action is driven entirely by magnetic repulsion: each paddle magnet is paired with a body magnet of opposing polarity, pushing the paddle back to center after each press.

Part 1: Identify Left and Right

1. Before handling any magnets, lay both paddles onto the key body in their installed position. Looking down from above, note which paddle sits on the left and which sits on the right. The left paddle is Paddle #1; the right paddle is Paddle #2. See the reference image below.

Part 2: Position the Paddles at the Key Body

2. Keeping Paddle #1 and Paddle #2 in the same left/right position you just identified, lay them out next to the key body. Note: the body magnet hole corresponding to Paddle #1 is on the opposite side of the key body from where Paddle #1 sits. Keep this straight before you begin gluing anything.

Part 3: Identify the Attracting Faces

3. Using a 5×1mm and a 5×2mm neodymium magnet, allow them to mate together freely. Do not force or flip either one. Let them find their own attracted orientation. Repeat this to make a second pair, so you end up with two mated pairs, each one 5×2mm magnet mated with one 5×1mm magnet. This identifies, for each pair, which faces attract to each other.

Part 4: Mark the Magnet Pairs

4. The Dot System: With a mated magnet pair from Part 3, use a fine-tip marker to mark the two outward-facing sides: the faces not touching each other. Mark the first pair with one dot (•) and the second pair with two dots (••). Note: the unmarked faces of a pair attract to each other, and the marked (dotted) faces of a pair also attract to each other. For assembly, each pair will be installed with one magnet's dot facing out and the other magnet's dot facing in. This is what makes the two magnets repel once installed.

Part 5: Install the Magnet Pairs

5. Take the one-dot pair. Using a very small dab of glue, insert the 5×2mm magnet into Paddle #1's paddle arm with the dot-marked side facing in and the unmarked side facing out. Then, using a small dab of glue, insert the 5×1mm magnet into Paddle #1's corresponding body magnet hole (opposite side of the key body, see Part 2) with the dot-marked side facing out. Orienting one magnet dot-in and the other dot-out is what produces the repelling action.
6. Repeat this same process for Paddle #2 (right), using the two-dot pair: 5×2mm magnet into Paddle #2's paddle arm with the dot facing in, and 5×1mm magnet into Paddle #2's corresponding body magnet hole with the dot facing out.

Part 6: Confirm the Repelling Action

7. Once both pairs are installed, put the paddle arms back into their finished position against the key body to confirm the repelling force for all four magnets.

Using the travel case lid as a winding jig, form a stress-relief loop on each paddle wire. The loops reduce tension on the wire during paddle movement. Each paddle is wound differently; follow the instructions for each side carefully.

Left Paddle (#1): 360°

1. Rest the left paddle (#1) on the radius guide so the paddle arm extension faces directly toward you. The wire should be pointing toward you at the 180° position.
2. Wrap the wire clockwise 360° around the radius guide nub for one full turn.

Right Paddle (#2): 270°

1. Rest the right paddle (#2) on the radius guide with the paddle handle pointing directly toward you, same orientation as the left paddle (#1). The wire should extend to the right at the 90° position.
2. Wrap the wire counter-clockwise 270° around the radius guide nub. After completing the turn, the wire should be pointing directly toward you.

Final Step: Seat the Loops

With both loops wound, bring the two paddle arms together into their final assembled position, nesting the two stress-relief loops you just made against each other. Then use your finger to compress the nested loops tightly against the paddles. This seats the wire flush and keeps the loops from interfering with assembly.

1. Place the key body upright in the shipping container vise with the set screw holes facing up and accessible.
2. Using the small flat screwdriver, thread each M2×3mm set screw into its pre-tapped hole by hand first to confirm it catches the threads cleanly.
3. Drive each set screw in slowly until you can just see the tip beginning to protrude through the other side of the hole, then stop. Do not drive it further.

Build the mechanical stack outside the key body first, then lower the complete assembly into position as a unit.

1. Insert the M2.5 shoulder bolt down through the F693ZZ flanged bearing of the left paddle (Paddle #1).
2. Slide two 0.2mm shims onto the shoulder bolt, above the bearing.
3. Lower the right paddle (Paddle #2) onto the stack, passing its bearing down over the shoulder bolt. The shoulder is sized to produce a snug fit between the two paddles.
4. Flip the entire stack upside down and slide two more 0.2mm shims onto the bolt below the right paddle bearing. Holding the stack upside down makes this much easier.
5. Feed both paddle wires through their respective holes in the key body. While still holding the stack upside down, lower the key body down onto the stack so the shoulder bolt meets the threaded hole in the key body.
6. Thread the shoulder bolt into the key body and tighten until snug. Do not overtighten.

1. Place the 3.5mm jack into the cutout on the shipping container. Lay the lid flat on top of the container. Note where the jack's terminals protrude through the guide holes in the lid. Using flush wire cutters, snip each terminal flush with the lid surface. Run your fingertip across the trimmed terminals. If you feel any point or protrusion, the cut was not flush and should be re-trimmed.
2. Remove the lid. Before seating the PCB breakout board, confirm the 3.5mm jack is oriented so it points in the same direction as the arrow printed on the PCB board. Then align the board to the jack terminals using the container's alignment guides.
   If the PCB does not drop in freely, use the sandpaper to gently sand both edges of the breakout board equally until it seats without force between the alignment guides.
3. Apply just enough solder to form a solid connection between each terminal and its corresponding PCB pad. Then apply light tinning to the signal pads on the opposite end of the PCB where the paddle wires will attach in Step 16.
4. Insert the plug and PCB assembly into the CW key body. Turn the key body to view it from a profile (side) view and check whether any solder beads are visible above the key body surface. If you see any, that's okay for now; we'll determine in Step 18 whether they need to be filed down after the key is fully wired.

1. With the PCB board seated in the key body, begin routing each paddle wire so it makes clean 90-degree turns toward its corresponding pad on the PCB breakout board. Route each wire directly to its own pad. Do not allow a wire to pass over or across a neighboring pad. A wire crossing over an adjacent pad risks creating an unintended solder bridge when soldering.
2. Thread each wire down through its labeled through-hole: DIT, DAH, or GND. The through-holes will hold the wires in position while you solder. Route any excess wire toward the center lug using the small channel cutout in the key body to keep it out of the way.
3. Once the wires are routed the way you want them, solder each wire in place at its pad.
4. With everything looking good, confirm and solder the DIT, DAH, and GND wires to their respective pads.

1. Put your radio in Test Mode: long press button 2, then long press button 3.
2. Plug the key into your radio and press each paddle. Confirm that the DIT paddle sends dits and the DAH paddle sends dahs. If either paddle does not work correctly, see Troubleshooting: Step 17 before continuing.
3. Once both paddles pass, unplug the key from your radio.
4. Back the M2.5 shoulder bolt out slightly so glue can reach its threads. Then gently lift the 3.5mm jack and PCB breakout board slightly out of position, just enough to fit glue underneath them. Do not pull on the soldered wires or lift them any further than needed.
5. Apply superglue underneath the jack and PCB board, then press both back down into their seats. Work quickly; superglue sets fast.
6. Make sure there is no excess glue on the key (see Troubleshooting: Excess Superglue if there is), then insert the key into your radio to confirm the position and fit look good while the glue dries. Allow the glue to cure fully before removing the key.

1. With the key inserted into your radio, slowly turn each body set screw clockwise using the small flathead screwdriver until you hear the radio actuate. Then back the screw out 1/8 to ¼ turn to taste; find what feels right for your operating style. Note: Each set screw controls the contact point for the opposite paddle. If the key feels erratic or oversensitive, back the set screw out an additional 1/6 to 1/8 turn until the action feels clean.
2. Test both paddles thoroughly and fine-tune until the key responds exactly the way you like.
3. Before placing the lid, operate the key over a few sessions to confirm everything is working correctly. The lid goes on last; take the time to satisfy yourself the key performs reliably under normal operating conditions.
4. Once confident everything is working correctly, lay the CW key lid on a flat surface with the tension-fit nubs facing up. Set the key body on top, matching the male nubs with the female cavity, and press firmly and evenly into place until the lid seats fully; you should feel it snap into place.

The Finished Key